Noel Payne, who runs Noel Costumier out of a workshop in her home, models one of the many custom-made Renaissance-era costumes she specializes in. The dress took 40 hours to make; the hand-beaded hat took 17 hours. Photo by Christine H. Wetzel. Renaissance-era peasant costumes for women are popular with members of re-enactment groups. Photo by Christine H. Wetzel. Noel Payne, seen here modeling a costume in her home, describes the process she goes through to make Renaissance-era hats by hand. Photo by Christine H. Wetzel.

Tuesday, January 16, 2001
Copyright © Las Vegas Review-Journal 

FASHION: Threads to the Past

Costume designer specializes in styles from Renaissance period 
By SONYA PADGETT
REVIEW-JOURNAL 

Divorce, at best, is heartbreaking. At its worst, devastating. 

No one knows that better than Noel Payne, whose own life was forever altered when her 17-year marriage ended in 1995. 

In a way, the divorce was like a death; her life as she knew it was over and Payne was left searching for something to relieve her emotional distress. She found it in an unlikely way -- with a needle and thread. 

"I was looking for a creative outlet," Payne, 51, said of the reason she started sewing four years ago. "I had been married for 17 years and suddenly my family was gone. It was an emotional time. I found I was good at (sewing) even though I didn't really know what I was doing at first." 

Those early efforts have evolved into a full-blown side business, Noel Costumier, for the mother, ex-wife, seamstress and designer. Specializing in Renaissance period costumes, Payne's own life was renewed by an era known for the rebirth of Europe's artistic, cultural, scientific and political thought. And she has managed to turn it into a thriving business. 

During the past two years she has worked on developing the business hoping to turn it into a viable career for when she eventually leaves her job as a stage electrician behind the scenes at "Siegfried & Roy." 

"I'm looking for things to really start popping," Payne said. "Word of mouth is spreading." 

When she isn't doing one of eight weekly shows of "Siegfried & Roy" at The Mirage, Payne is at home in her garage-turned-sewing workshop, making mostly Renaissance-era costumes for the majority of her clientele: individuals who belong to re-enactment groups. She also has made costumes for Renaissance weddings. 

"There's a big surge in re-enactment guilds and a trend in doing Renaissance weddings," Payne said. "It's not traditional but it's romantic." 

Though the majority of her designs have been from the early 1100s to the 1860s, Payne can and has made a variety of costumes including costumes for several productions at local casinos, a butterfly costume and outfits from popular movies. Prices vary according to material and time put into making the garment. For instance, a peasant girl costume will run about $55; a 1400s-era velvet gown costs about $300; while a hand-beaded French hood sells for $250. 

After seeing the quality of her designs, it's hard to believe Payne never received any kind of formal training, said frequent customer Bill Sikkens. 

Sikkens, guild master of the local chapter of the re-enactment society St. Andrew's Guild, has used Payne's services to outfit guild members.

"It's unusual to find someone local who does Renaissance costuming," Sikkens said. "And she's good. (Her work) is definitely show quality." 

In fact, with the exception of a sewing class in the eighth grade, Payne learned her sewing techniques on her own. 

"I had to make an apron for school," she said. Through the years, sewing was more than a hobby for Payne; it was a source of comfort. "It was something I knew how to do, something I knew I could fall back on." 

Payne has worked in show business in some capacity since 1972, most recently in wardrobe and as a stage electrician. It wasn't until two years after her divorce that she even started pursuing costume making as a hobby. 

The seed was planted for what has grown into Payne's business four years ago, when her daughter was a ninth-grader at Bonanza High School. 

Her daughter's theater teacher asked Payne to help with costumes for the school's productions of "Stage Door" and "Once Upon a Mattress." She made a few costumes for "Stage Door" and 41 sets of wardrobe for the production of "Once Upon a Mattress." 

One thing led to another and before long the 16-year Las Vegas resident was doing repairs and making costumes for local costume stores, and doing designs for musical productions such as "Seven Brides for Seven Brothers" and "42nd Street." Her work can be seen everywhere; during December, Payne loaned $5,000 worth of costumes to Opportunity Village, outfitting, among others, Santa Claus and King Arthur at the annual Magical Forest. She also made the costumes for the living statues at The Venetian's Grand Canal Shoppes. 

Just one of her handmade beaded women's hats took 17 hours to make; an 1800s-style dress took 40 hours. She gets her ideas from books, magazines, movies and television and uses only period-authentic materials such as silk, cotton, wool and linen. 

"It's not the sewing so much as it is the creativity that I (enjoy)," Payne said. "I like seeing a picture of something and building it to make it work. I thoroughly enjoy the challenge. I've found I'm really good at copying, but coming up with original ideas is harder for me." 

Next on her list is a Bridal Show Jan. 26 and 27 at Cashman Center, where Payne will set up a booth and display some of her costumes. 

Thinking back over the last few years, Payne said she is more fulfilled now than ever before. 

"I'm just taking it day by day, doing as much as I can to build my business," Payne said. "I never know what the next phone call is going to bring."